‘Gnarly’ waves up to 40-feet tall are pummeling West Coast beaches and causing flooding: ‘They’re huge’

Forecasters urged people to stay off rocks and jetties, and to not turn their backs to the ocean because of the danger of “sneaker waves” — occasional much bigger waves that can run far up the sand and wash someone off a beach.

A high surf warning for parts of Northern California said waves would range from 28 to 33 feet (8.5 to 10 meters) and up to 40 feet (12 meters) at some locations, the National Weather Service said, adding that there were reports of flooding in low-lying coastal areas.

In Aptos on the north end of Monterey Bay, surf overran the beach and swept into a parking lot, leaving the area strewn with debris. Santa Cruz County issued warnings for people in several coastal areas to be ready to evacuate.

“Mother Nature’s angry,” said Eve Krammer, an Aptos resident for several years. “I mean these waves are gnarly. They’re huge.”

The same area was battered by the ocean last January as the West Coast was slammed by numerous atmospheric rivers.

“I feel for the people that are down low here,” said Jeff Howard, also an Aptos resident.

While not quite as huge, the waves along Southern California were also described as hazardous, with life-threatening rip currents. Nonetheless, surfers couldn’t resist.

Patience was key, according to Alex Buford, 27, who was catching waves just north of Manhattan Beach on the Los Angeles County coast.

“I was waiting for awhile because the waves were really sick, and they’re kinda hard to get into even though I have a really big board,” he said. “Just waited for a good one and I got it and it was a long one. Pretty big. It was sick.”

In Hawaii, the weather service forecast surf rising to 30 to 40 feet (9 to 12 meters) along north-facing shores and 18 to 22 feet (5.5 to 6.7 meters)…